The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Lily Cake

1/3 cup butter. 1 cup sugar. 1/2 cup milk. 1 3/4 cups flour. 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder Whites 3 eggs 1/3 teaspoon lemon extract 2/3 teaspoon vanilla Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes.

For the Modern Kitchen

The text as printed is a fragment: the ingredient list has been mangled in transcription, leaving only the leavening, egg whites and flavourings. The notes below cover what can be said with confidence and where the gaps lie.

A Little History

Late nineteenth-century American cookbooks carry long runs of butter cakes distinguished mainly by their flavouring and by whether they use whole eggs, yolks or whites, and "Lily Cake" belongs to the white-cake family, the name often said to come from its colour: whites only, no spice, no molasses, nothing to tint the crumb. Such cakes became practical for ordinary households only after reliable commercial baking powder spread in the second half of the nineteenth century, which let a cook lean on chemical leavening instead of relying entirely on beaten egg. The pairing of lemon and vanilla extract is also of its moment, when bottled flavouring extracts were cheap, heavily advertised, and a mark of a modern kitchen. The habit of writing "follow recipe for mixing butter cakes" rather than repeating the method each time was common to cookbooks of the period, and it is one reason such books read as teaching texts: the method was to be learned once and applied across dozens of variations.

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