The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

HomeBeef › Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce

Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce

Serve broiled Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce. Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce Serve broiled Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce. Porterhouse Steak, Bordelaise Sauce Serve broiled porterhouse steak with Bordelaise Sauce. Cook one shallot, finely chopped, with one-fourth cup claret until claret is reduced to two tablespoons, and strain. Melt two tablespoons butter, add one slice onion, two slices carrot, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, eight peppercorns, and one clove, and cook until brown. Add three and one-half tablespoons flour, and when well browned add gradually one cup Brown Stock. Strain, let simmer eight minutes, add claret and one tablespoon butter. Season with salt and pepper. Remove marrow from a marrow-bone and cut in one-third inch slices; then poach in boiling water. Arrange on and around steak, and pour around sauce. 1/2 cup butter Yolks 3 eggs

For the Modern Kitchen

The first two lines are cross-references; the substance here is the Bordelaise, a brown sauce finished with red wine and served with poached beef marrow. A few of Farmer's assumptions need translating.

A Little History

Sauce bordelaise takes its name from Bordeaux and from the red wine of that region, and in classic French practice it is a reduction of wine, shallot and pepper bound with a brown sauce and garnished with poached beef marrow, which is what makes the sauce recognizably bordelaise rather than simply a red-wine gravy. Fannie Farmer's version follows the general French pattern, building a brown sauce from scratch with a browned mirepoix and a dark roux, though it is a quick household sauce rather than the long-simmered espagnole or demi-glace base of the professional French kitchen; its presence in a Boston cooking-school book shows how far the French repertoire had entered American middle-class instruction by the 1890s. The list of steak-and-sauce pairings around it, mushroom, tomato and mushroom, bordelaise, reflects the period habit of teaching a handful of base sauces and then cataloguing the dishes they could be dressed with, so a cook learned combinations rather than isolated recipes.

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