The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Quick Paste

Cold water 1/4 cup lard, crisco, or cottolene Mix salt with flour, cut in shortening with knife. Moisten to dough with cold water. Toss on floured board, pat, roll out, and roll up like a jelly roll. Use one-third cup of shortening if a richer paste is desired. 1½ cups flour ¾ teaspoon salt

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain shortening pie crust, printed here with its ingredient list scrambled around the method — read it as 1½ cups flour, salt, ¼ cup shortening and about ¼ cup cold water. A few points make it behave.

A Little History

American bakers of the period were choosing between three fats: lard, long established; Cottolene, a cottonseed-oil-and-suet shortening marketed heavily from the 1890s; and Crisco, the hydrogenated vegetable shortening introduced by Procter & Gamble in 1911. Listing all three in a single line, as this recipe does, is a small snapshot of that transition — no preference is expressed, and they are treated as interchangeable by volume. The name "quick paste" distinguishes it from puff paste, which demanded repeated folding, chilling and a great deal of butter; the single jelly-roll turn here is a shortcut that gives some flakiness for a fraction of the labour. "Paste" for pie dough is the older English usage.

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