The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Roast Chicken

Dress, clean, stuff, and truss a chicken. Place on its back on rack in a dripping-pan, rub entire surface with salt, and spread breast and legs with three tablespoons butter, rubbed until creamy and mixed with two tablespoons flour. Dredge bottom of pan with flour. Place in a hot oven, and when flour is well browned, reduce the heat, then baste. Continue basting every ten minutes until chicken is cooked. For basting, use one-fourth cup butter, melted in two-thirds cup boiling water, and after this is gone, use fat in pan, and when necessary to prevent flour burning, add one cup boiling water. During cooking, turn chicken frequently, that it may brown evenly. If a thick crust is desired, dredge bird with flour two or three times during cooking. If a glazed surface is preferred, spread bird with butter, omitting flour, and do not dredge during baking. When breast meat is tender, bird is sufficiently cooked. A four-pound chicken requires about one and one-half hours. Powdered sage, summer savory, or marjoram.

Stuffing I 1 cup cracker crumbs 1/3 cup boiling water 1/3 cup butter

For the Modern Kitchen

A butter-and-flour crust method that predates reliable oven thermostats, which is why so much of the instruction is about watching the flour rather than watching the clock. It works well today with a few translations.

A Little History

Fannie Farmer's roast chicken belongs to the era just before the thermostat, when oven heat was often judged by how quickly a sheet of paper scorched, which is why the instruction here is to watch the dredged flour rather than a dial. The butter-and-flour coating is an old English roasting habit carried into the American kitchen — turning before an open fire made a crust that held basting fat, and the practice survived the move indoors to the closed range. The Boston Cooking School is often credited with fixing quantities to it, right down to the two-thirds cup of boiling water, part of the school's broader project of turning inherited kitchen judgment into measurable, teachable steps.

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