The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Sponge Cake (Yolks eggs cup sugar)

Yolks 6 eggs 1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice Grated rind one-half lemon Whites 6 eggs 1 cup flour ¼ teaspoon salt Beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored, add sugar gradually, and continue beating, using egg-beater. Add lemon juice, rind, and whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. When whites are partially mixed with yolks, remove beater, and carefully cut and fold in flour mixed and sifted with salt. Bake one hour in a slow oven, in an angel cake pan or deep narrow pan.

Genuine sponge cake contains no rising properties, but is made light by the quantity of air beaten into both yolks and whites of eggs, and the expansion of that air in baking. It requires a slow oven. All so-called sponge cakes which have the addition of soda and cream of tartar or baking powder require same oven temperature as butter cakes. When failures are made in Sunshine and Angel Cake, they are usually traced to baking in too slow an oven, and removing from oven before thoroughly cooked.

For the Modern Kitchen

A true foam cake: six eggs, sugar, flour, and nothing else to lift it. Everything depends on how much air you get in and how gently you keep it.

A Little History

Sponge cake belongs to the family of foam cakes that predate chemical leaveners entirely -- cooks raised them with beaten eggs alone, which is why the technique passages in early manuals run longer than the ingredient lists. The insistence here on distinguishing "genuine" sponge cake from the "so-called sponge cakes" leavened with soda and cream of tartar or baking powder marks a real anxiety of the 1890s and 1900s: commercial baking powder had become cheap and ubiquitous. The Boston Cooking School tradition -- which includes Mrs. Lincoln's books as well as Fannie Farmer's -- had as its project to teach cooking as a set of understood principles rather than inherited habits, and this entry is a small example: the recipe ends not with a serving suggestion but with an explanation of why the air expands and why the oven must be slow, followed by a diagnosis of the commonest failure.

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