The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Stuffed Onions

Remove skins from onions, and parboil ten minutes in boiling salted water to cover. Turn upside down to cool, and remove part of centres. Fill cavities with equal parts of finely chopped cooked chicken, stale soft bread crumbs, and finely chopped onion which was removed, seasoned with salt and pepper, and moistened with cream or melted butter. Place in buttered shallow baking-pan, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven until onions are soft. Creamed Oyster Plant (Salsify) Wash, scrape, and put at once into cold acidulated water to prevent discoloration. Cut in inch slices, cook in boiling salted water until soft, drain, and add to White Sauce I. Oyster plant is in season from October to March.

For the Modern Kitchen

Two recipes sit on this page: onions stuffed with a chicken-and-crumb forcemeat, and creamed salsify. Both are straightforward, but the onions depend almost entirely on getting them tender without letting them collapse.

A Little History

Fannie Farmer's Boston Cooking-School Cook Book was built for households that cooked from what was already in the larder, and stuffed onions are a plain example: cooked chicken reappears bound with stale bread and the onion's own scooped-out centre, so that little is bought and little is thrown out. Salsify was commonly called oyster plant in nineteenth-century America for a faint shellfish note that cooks either tasted or did not, and it was a familiar winter root in the Northeast before it slipped out of general use. Farmer's note that it is in season from October to March reflects a market calendar that mattered before refrigerated shipping, when a vegetable chapter had to tell you when a thing could be had at all.

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