The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Sweet Potato Balls

To two cups hot riced sweet potatoes add three tablespoons butter, one-half teaspoon salt, few grains pepper, and one beaten egg. Shape in small balls, roll in flour, fry in deep fat, and drain. If potatoes are very dry, it will be necessary to add hot milk to moisten.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward croquette in all but name, and it depends almost entirely on the moisture of the potatoes and the heat of the fat.

A Little History

Sweet potato balls belong to the great family of croquettes that fill the potato and entree chapters of American cookbooks between about 1880 and 1920, when deep frying in a kettle of lard or cottonseed oil was routine domestic practice and cooking schools taught the technique systematically. Fannie Farmer's book gives the same treatment to white potatoes, rice, hominy and chicken: bind a cooked starch or meat with egg and butter, shape, coat, fry. The sweet potato version reads as a New England kitchen's use of a Southern staple, dressed up for a company dinner in the way a plain baked root could not be. A related confection, in which each ball is formed around a marshmallow, is often traced to the same era of holiday cooking.

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