The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

HomeBread And Bread Making › Water Bread

Water Bread

2 cups boiling water. 1 tablespoon butter. 1 tablespoon lard. 2 tablespoons sugar. 2½ teaspoons salt ¼ yeast cake dissolved in ¼ cup lukewarm water 6 cups sifted flour Put butter, lard, sugar, and salt in bread raiser, or large bowl without a lip; pour on boiling water; when lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake and five cups of flour; then stir until thoroughly mixed, using a knife or mixing-spoon. Add remaining flour, mix, and turn on a floured board, leaving a clean bowl; knead until mixture is smooth, elastic to touch, and bubbles may be seen under the surface. Some practice is required to knead quickly, but the motion once acquired will never be forgotten. Return to bowl, cover with a clean cloth kept for the purpose, and board or tin cover; let rise over night in temperature of 65° F. In morning cut down: this is accomplished by cutting through and turning over dough several times with a case knife, and checks fermentation for a short time; dough may be again raised, and recut down if it is not convenient to shape into loaves or biscuits after first cutting. When properly cared for, bread need never sour. Toss on board slightly floured, knead, shape into loaves or biscuits, place in greased pans, having pans nearly half full. Cover, let rise again to double its bulk, and bake in hot oven. (See Baking of Bread and Time-Table for Baking.) This recipe will make a double loaf of bread and pan of biscuit. Cottolene, crisco, or beef drippings may be used for shortening, one-third less being required. Bread shortened with butter has a good flavor, but is not as white as when lard is used.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain overnight white loaf from the era when compressed yeast came in cakes and kitchens ran cold. The ingredient list as printed here is incomplete — the liquid, shortening and sugar are missing — so treat the method, not the header, as the useful part.

A Little History

Water bread is the baseline loaf of Fannie Farmer's Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, set against milk bread, entire wheat bread and the rest: water rather than scalded milk gives a leaner crumb, a crisper crust and a loaf that stales faster but costs less. Its overnight, quarter-cake method belongs to the moment when reliable commercial compressed yeast had reached American grocers and home bakers no longer had to keep a ferment alive between bakings — the cook's job shifted from managing a culture to managing temperature, which is why 65°F is written into the instructions as firmly as the flour is. The aside that butter-shortened bread tastes better but looks less white is a small window on period taste, when a bright white crumb was itself a mark of quality, and the promise that "bread need never sour" is Farmer's whole pedagogical argument in one line: fermentation is a process to be controlled by measurement, not luck.

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