The Bride's Cook Book

A wedding present from the advertisers, San Francisco, c.1918 — a young wife's whole cookery course, paid for by the Blue Bird washer, the Portland Studio and Ghirardelli's chocolate.

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Custard Sauce (Scald one pint milk in double)

Scald one pint milk in double boiler.

Dissolve three-quarters tablespoonful corn starch and add to milk, cook about ten minutes. Beat yolks two eggs slightly, add one-quarter cup sugar, oneeighth teaspoonful salt, dilute two tablespoonfuls thickened milk, pour into boiler, let cook at lower temperature until eggs are thickened. Remove from fire, add one teaspoonful butter and onehalf teaspoonful vanilla. Beat well and cool quickly. Serve cold.

For the Modern Kitchen

A stirred custard sauce stabilized with a little cornstarch, which makes it far more forgiving than a pure crème anglaise. The original assumes a double boiler and gives no yield.

A Little History

Custard sauce is the plain English cousin of French crème anglaise, and one sauce, learned once, dressed a dozen different puddings and rescued a dry cake. The cornstarch is the American touch. Cornstarch was manufactured commercially in the United States from the 1840s and was gradually adopted into home pantries over the decades that followed, and cookery writers of the period are often said to have added a little of it to egg custards precisely because it insures the sauce against curdling — a real concern for a cook working over a coal or wood range with no thermometer and uneven heat. Books aimed at new housekeepers leaned hard on such safeguards; the double boiler, likewise, is generally thought to have been common equipment in this era, doing the work of the modern low burner.

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