The Bride's Cook Book

A wedding present from the advertisers, San Francisco, c.1918 — a young wife's whole cookery course, paid for by the Blue Bird washer, the Portland Studio and Ghirardelli's chocolate.

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Eggnog

White of 1. Egg Beaten Stiff Yolk of 1 Egg 1 Tablespoon Yellow Corn Syrup 1 Cup Rich Milk 1 Tablespoon Sherry, Brandy, or Whiskey Mix in the order given, beating all the time. Dust the top with grated nutmeg and serve very cold.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A single-glass eggnog built on raw egg and served cold, with no cooking step at any point. The ingredients are otherwise unremarkable; the method is the problem.

A Little History

Eggnog is generally held to descend from the British posset and sack-posset — hot milk curdled with wine or ale and enriched with eggs — which crossed the Atlantic and settled into a colder, spirit-based drink in America, where rum, whiskey and brandy were cheaper than imported sack. The name is generally traced to "nog," an old English word for strong ale, though the derivation is traditional rather than proven. What marks this version as twentieth-century and American is the corn syrup: a household book of the period reaches for a bottled commercial sweetener rather than sugar or the older sugared-and-aged approach, and offers sherry, brandy or whiskey interchangeably, in a single tablespoon, as flavouring rather than as the point of the drink. That restraint says a good deal about the era's view of eggnog as a nourishing food — one glass, one egg, dusted with nutmeg — rather than a holiday indulgence.

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