The Bride's Cook Book

A wedding present from the advertisers, San Francisco, c.1918 — a young wife's whole cookery course, paid for by the Blue Bird washer, the Portland Studio and Ghirardelli's chocolate.

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Stuffed Onions

Select one large dry onion for each person. Boil in plenty of water, uncovered, until about half done. When cool enough to handle, remove part of / are the centers, leaving a shell. Season the inside of each onion with salt and pepper. Chop the part removed and add to it the following mixture, the proportion being sufficient to fill about six onions.

Mix together the chopped onion centers, one cupful cold cooked oats, one-fourth cupful grated cheese, half a cupful dry crumbs (cornmeal breadcrumbs are good), one teaspooniul sage, one teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce, one cupful white sauce, and salt and pepper to taste. Stuff the onions, sprinkle the top with grated cheese or oiled crumbs and bake in a moderate oven half an hour.

Serve plain or with white sauce poured over them. A little left-over meat or fish may be used in place of the crumbs if on hand.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward stuffed vegetable that depends almost entirely on how far you take the initial boil. A few of the terms and quantities need translating.

A Little History

Stuffed onions belong to the large family of hollowed-and-filled vegetable dishes that filled the vegetable chapters of American cookbooks in the early twentieth century, when a cookbook was expected to show how one cup of leftovers could be turned into a dinner for six. The cooked-oatmeal binder is the telling detail: oats were promoted heavily in this period as cheap, wholesome and expandable, and the breakfast pot could evidently be pressed into service at supper. Worcestershire sauce and grated cheese do the work that meat would otherwise do, giving savour to a meatless plate without calling it a sacrifice, and the closing line about left-over meat or fish "if on hand" makes the economy explicit. The technique itself is old and unfussy, par-boil to soften, hollow, fill and brown, and it is the same one applied to peppers, tomatoes and marrows elsewhere in books of this kind.

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