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Apple Sponge
1032. Boil half a pound of apples with a quarter of a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, and the rind of a lemon; when soft, pulp it through a sieve, then beat half a pint of thick cream to a strong froth, add half an ounce of isinglass melted in a little water; mix all together, and put it in the mould; if liked when turned out, pour a custard over.
A Victorian fruit sponge: apple purée lightened with whipped cream and set with isinglass. The whole thing hinges on temperature — fold cream into purée that has cooled to barely warm, or the froth collapses and the sponge sets as a dense jelly.
- Imperial measuresThis is a British book, so a pint is 20 fl oz: half a pint of water is 10 fl oz (1¼ cups), as is the half pint of cream. Half a pound of apples is 8 oz, roughly one large or two small cooking apples; a quarter pound of sugar is 4 oz, about half a cup.
- IsinglassIsinglass is a gelatine made from the swim bladders of sturgeon and other fish, and it is no longer a kitchen staple. Half an ounce is enough to set a little over a pint of mixture; in practice about 2 teaspoons of powdered gelatine or three leaves of sheet gelatine does the same work, softened and dissolved in a few spoonfuls of water.
- Dissolving the gelatineWarm it gently until clear and add it while the purée is still lukewarm. Gelatine dropped into a cold mixture sets in threads and never disperses; boiled gelatine loses strength.
- The applesBramleys or another cooking apple break down to a fluff and need the full sugar. Eating apples hold their shape, take longer, and will make a sweeter, blander sponge. Peel and core before weighing.
- SievingPushing the pulp through a sieve is not optional refinement — it removes skin, fibre and the lemon rind, and gives the smooth base the set depends on. A blender purées but leaves the peel gritty.
- Whipping the creamUse double or heavy cream and stop at soft peaks that just hold. "A strong froth" probably meant something stiffer than modern folding cream likes; over-whipped cream turns grainy and refuses to blend.
- Moulding and turning outRinse the mould with cold water rather than oiling it, and chill at least four hours, preferably overnight. To unmould, dip the base in hot water for a few seconds and invert onto a wetted plate.
- The custardThe optional custard poured over is a thin pouring custard — crème anglaise — not a set or baked one. Make it the day before and serve it cold, or it will melt the edges of the sponge.
- YieldFills a 1½-pint mould and serves four, or six in small glasses if you would rather not risk turning it out.