Game Pies
773. Game pies may be raised in the same way. A very delicious raised game pie is made of partridges, pheasants, and any other kind of game mixed; taking out the bones, and cutting up the flesh. It is then mixed with the chopped liver, and placed inside the raised crust; after which, when cold, the top is taken off, and a strong jelly made from the bones, and well spiced; then, after getting cold, mix among the meat.
This is a continuation entry: the crust and method come from the raised pie recipe immediately before it, and only the game filling is described here. Treat it as a cold hand-raised pie in the pork-pie tradition, finished with a jellied stock poured in after baking.
- "Raised in the same way"The crust intended is hot-water paste — flour worked with boiling water and lard, moulded by hand while warm around a jar or wooden block, or pressed into a springform tin. It is a structural pastry, not a short one, and must be worked hot and filled before it cools and cracks.
- What counts as gamePartridge and pheasant are the named birds; grouse, woodcock, wild duck or hare all suit. A brace of pheasants plus two partridges, boned, gives something in the region of 3 lb of meat, enough for a pie of about 8 inches. Farmed pheasant is milder and leaner than the wild birds this recipe assumes.
- Add fat to the mixGame is very lean and a pie of pure breast meat bakes dry. Traditional practice is to work in a third to a quarter of its weight in fat pork, sausagemeat or fat bacon, chopped or coarsely minced, along with the chopped livers.
- OvenNo temperature is given. A raised pie of this size is normally started hot, around 425F, for 20 to 30 minutes to set the walls, then dropped to 325-350F for a further hour and a half or so, until the centre reaches 165F on a thermometer.
- The jelly is the hingeSimmer the carcasses and trimmings for several hours with an onion, carrot and herbs to make a stock that sets firm when chilled; a split pig's trotter or a little added gelatine guarantees the set. Season and spice it more strongly than seems right, since cold jelly tastes flat. The recipe has the jelly cooled before it is mixed among the meat; the commoner practice is to pour it in while still warm and liquid, through the hole in the top, in stages, letting it find its way into the gaps as the pie cools.
- SpicingPeriod seasoning for game pies runs to mace, allspice, nutmeg, black pepper and a little cayenne, with salt. Around 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt per pound of meat is usual for a pie eaten cold.
- "The top is taken off"Rather than cutting the lid away, cut a small vent hole in the centre of the lid before baking and use a funnel for the jelly. Either way the pie must be quite cold before jelly goes in, and then chilled overnight so the jelly sets solid before cutting.
- ServingA pie of this size serves 8 to 10 as a cold course, cut in wedges with pickles or a sharp salad. It keeps three or four days refrigerated.