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Potato Balls Ragout
599. Are made by adding to one pound of potatoes a quarter of a pound of grated ham, some sweet herbs, chopped parsley, an onion or shalot, salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg or other spice, with the yolk of a couple of eggs; fry them in clear dripping, or brown them in a Dutch oven.
A Victorian way of stretching cold ham and leftover potatoes into a fried savoury. The instructions assume knowledge the modern cook has to supply: the potatoes must be cooked, and the mixture must be dry enough to hold a shape.
- Start with dry potatoesThe pound of potatoes must in practice be cooked, boiled or baked, and mashed; the original does not say so, and it also says nothing about milk or cream, which are best left out here. Steam them dry in the pan for a minute before mashing; wet mash will slump in the fat and absorb it.
- Quantities in modern terms1 lb potatoes is roughly 450 g, or about three medium floury potatoes; a quarter pound of grated ham is about 110 g. Two yolks bind that amount comfortably, and the mixture should be firm enough to roll between the palms.
- ShalotSpelled shallot today. Whichever allium you use, chop it very fine and soften it in a little of the dripping first, or it will still be raw and sharp when the outside of the ball is browned.
- Salt with careCured ham carries a great deal of salt, and period ham was saltier still. Taste the mixture before adding any, and count on the pepper and nutmeg to do most of the seasoning.
- Dripping and fryingClear dripping is beef or pork fat strained free of sediment; any neutral fat with a high smoke point works. Shallow-fry at about 350F so the crust sets before the centre overheats and bursts, three to four minutes, turning once.
- The Dutch ovenHere it means the open-fronted tin reflector set before the fire, not the modern lidded casserole. To brown them that way now, roll the balls in fine crumbs, brush with fat and bake at 425F for 20 to 25 minutes, turning halfway.
- Sweet herbsA loose period term for a mixture that commonly drew on thyme, marjoram, savory and the like, often dried; parsley is called for separately here. A teaspoon of mixed dried herbs is about right for this quantity.
- YieldEnough for three or four as a side dish or a light supper with a green salad; the number of balls depends on how large you roll them.