Raspberry Jelly

A Victorian moulded jelly, set firm enough to turn out and hold its shape. The proportions are sound; only the handling of the gelatine needs adjusting to modern products.

• Don't hold it at a boilProlonged boiling degrades gelatine, and the jelly can set soft. Soak the gelatine in the cold water until swollen, warm it just to dissolve, then stir in the hot syrup and skim. A brief scald is enough.
• Gelatine strengthOne ounce is about 28 g, or roughly four envelopes of modern powdered gelatine (7 g each); leaf gelatine varies in size, but at the common 1.7-2 g a sheet that is fourteen to sixteen leaves. Against a total of 1 1/4 pints (about 700 ml) of liquid this gives a stiff, sliceable jelly meant to be unmoulded; for a spoonable dessert served in glasses, half that gelatine is plenty.
• Raspberry syrupThe book means a sweet fruit syrup, not modern seedless jam or squash concentrate. Sieved raspberry puree let down with sugar syrup, or a bottled fruit syrup of the sort sold for drinks, both work; taste before setting, since the sweetness of commercial syrups varies enormously.
• Fifteen grains of tartaric acidThat is just under 1 g, about a quarter teaspoon. It sharpens the fruit and brightens the colour. Lemon juice, a tablespoon or so, does the same job and is easier to measure.
• The mouldRinse it with cold water rather than oiling it; the film of water helps the jelly release. Chill four to six hours, or overnight for a large mould. To turn out, dip the mould briefly in hot water and invert onto a wetted plate so the jelly can be slid into position.
• YieldAbout 700 ml of jelly, enough for a 1 1/4-pint mould and four to six servings.