Rice Porridge (Half a pound of rice pour)

A savoury rice-and-oatmeal porridge of the economical sort, thickened by long swelling rather than by a roux. The proportions are enormous by modern standards and the whole thing depends on managing lumps and scorching.

• YieldThree quarts of water plus half a pound of rice and up to half a pound of oatmeal gives roughly 3 litres of thick porridge, enough for eight to ten servings. Halve or quarter it for a household.
• "Quite a jelly"This is the hinge. The rice is left in the boiling water until the grains have collapsed and the liquid is viscous rather than watery; the recipe gives no time or heat, but expect a long soak or slow swelling, and short-grain or pudding rice will break down faster than modern long-grain.
• Slaking the oatmealMixing the oatmeal with cold water first is not optional; dry meal tipped into hot liquid seizes into lumps that no amount of stirring will disperse. Use enough cold water to make a pourable cream, then trickle it in while stirring.
• Which oatmealThe book means dry pinhead or medium ground oatmeal, not rolled oats. Rolled oats will work but thicken faster and taste blander; medium oatmeal needs a good 20 to 30 minutes of simmering after it goes in.
• Fat and quantitiesHalf an ounce of fat is about a tablespoon, and one ounce of onion is a small handful, perhaps a quarter of a medium onion. Both are austerity measures -- doubling the onion and using two ounces of bacon fat makes a considerably better dish.
• ScorchingOnce the oatmeal is in, the mixture catches on the base almost immediately. Use the heaviest pan you own, keep the heat low, and stir right into the corners; "stirring all the time" is meant literally.
• It is a savoury dishDespite the name, this is closer to a thick gruel or pottage than to breakfast porridge. Serve it hot in bowls, with more pepper and a little vinegar or a spoon of dripping on top; it sets almost solid when cold and can be sliced and fried.