The Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf

Three thousand recipes from the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf — the hotel kitchen that taught Gilded Age America how to dine, from beef tea to watermelon with champagne.

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Anchovies

These delicious little seafish come principally from the Mediterranean; those esteemed most highly come from Gorgona. These fish are also found in small shoals along the coast of Great Britain, but there are no specific fisheries for them. They are caught at night by nets, the fish being attracted by lights attached to the boats.

To preserve them for exportation, the heads are cut off and the bodies cleaned. They are then placed in brine, packed in barrels and afterwards put up in bottles for the market. Dutch anchovies may be known by their having the scales removed; and the French anchovies by their larger size; and both by the pale tint of their flesh. This peculiar coloring is sometimes counterfeited by artificial means in sprats or sardines. It would be well to note that the color of the pickle of the best fish on being filtered, is of a clear pink, without sediment; whereas the inferior sorts are generally turbid and red only when stirred, with also a heavy red sediment.

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