The Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf

Three thousand recipes from the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf — the hotel kitchen that taught Gilded Age America how to dine, from beef tea to watermelon with champagne.

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Calf's Brains in Scallop Shells

After boiling two brains, cut them into dice, season well, and put them into a basin. Gradually reduce two or three tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce in a saucepan, and add two tablespoonfuls of melted glaze. When it is cooked to a nice cream, add four tablespoonfuls of cooked sweet herbs, cook the mixture for two or three minutes, then add the brains, and take the pan off the fire. Have ready eight or nine well-cleaned scallop shells, fill them with the mixture, sprinkle over some grated Parmesan cheese, and glaze. Serve hot. Calf's Brains, Poulette Style Put a large piece of butter in a saucepan, and after melting it gradually add one teacupful of flour, mix well together and add one teacupful of clear broth, taking care to stir well all the time, then add about half a gill of white or Madeira wine and water in equal parts. Next add a few small onions and mushrooms and boil until they are done, adding a little grated nutmeg and salt and pepper according to the taste; when these are soft put in the brains and boil again for twelve or fifteen minutes; take out the brains and put them on a dish, add the yolk of an egg and the juice of a lemon to the sauce and pour it over the brains. The dish must be served very hot. Calf's Brains with Black or Brown Butter After cleaning, blanching and preparing take three calf's brains, put them in a stewpan and cover over with water, add two or three pinches of salt, one-half breakfast cupful of vinegar, one medium-sized sliced carrot, one sprig of thyme, one bay leaf and a dozen whole peppers; boil for five minutes, drain thoroughly and cut each brain into halves. Arrange on a dish, and serve with one gill of very hot black or brown butter.

Braised Breast of Veal, Milanese Style Bone a breast of veal weighing about two and one-half pounds, and season with one tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper. Stuff it in the usual way with forcemeat, roll and tie it, making a few incisions in the skin. Put it into a braising-pan with a sliced carrot and onion, and braise it for an hour and a half, basting it now and then with its own gravy. Serve with one pint of hot Milanese garnishing on a dish, placing the meat on top, and straining the gravy over it.

Breast of Veal, Poulette Cut a breast of veal into small equal-sized pieces, blanch, put them in a saucepan with a small quantity of the water in which they were parboiled and warm them over the fire. Sift in a small quantity of flour, stir it until smooth, then put in a lump of butter, some mushrooms, carrots, bay leaves, a bunch of sweet herbs and salt and pepper to taste. Place the lid on the saucepan and cook the contents gradually until nearly done, then put in some young white onions and fish cooking. When done place the pieces of veal on a hot dish and keep it near the fire while the sauce is being prepared. Strain the cooking liquor through a fine hair sieve into another saucepan, squeeze in a small quantity of lemon juice and then pour in the beaten yolks of four eggs; stir it over the fire until thick, not allowing it to boil, then pour it over the veal, and serve.

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