The Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf

Three thousand recipes from the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf — the hotel kitchen that taught Gilded Age America how to dine, from beef tea to watermelon with champagne.

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Calf's Head in Tortue

Cut the meat of half a cold-boiled calf's head into small pieces. Mix one wine-glassful of sherry with one-half pint of well reduced stock, add to this the yolks of six hard boiled eggs and the whites cut into small pieces, three chopped gherkins, six quenelles of veal forcemeat, the pieces of head and a little cayenne pepper. Place the saucepan over the fire till the contents are hot. Pile the pieces of head in the middle of a hot dish, pour the sauce and eggs round it, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve. Calf's Head, Royal Style This is considered by all epicures the very best of calf's head dishes. In the center of a silver dish is set a forcemeat loaf made from the fragments of the heads and necks used, scraps of veal, tongue and other things. About this are laid, overlapping each other, discs of the meat off the head, and between these alternately a blanched cockscomb and three button mushrooms, diminishing in size upwards. The ears scored and stuffed with a truffle in each, are placed on the loaf with truffles between them, and fried bread wedge-shaped croutons are ranged round the loaf, with truffles set on the base of every crouton. A few sprigs of fried parsley are sometimes added, and the whole is served with royal sauce.

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