The Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf

Three thousand recipes from the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf — the hotel kitchen that taught Gilded Age America how to dine, from beef tea to watermelon with champagne.

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Chocolate Ice-Cream

Put half a pound of chocolate in a saucepan over the fire, let it melt, and work with a spoon, add three pints of vanilla cream poured in gradually, and, lastly, five ounces of dissolved gelatine. Stir over the ice, turn in a mould packed with ice, and let it freeze.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a moulded ice, not a churned one: the mixture is chilled over ice, packed into a mould, and set in an ice-and-salt bath to freeze solid without stirring. The gelatine is what keeps it from turning into a block of ice crystals.

A Little History

Oscar Tschirky's The Cook Book by "Oscar" of the Waldorf (1896) came out of a hotel kitchen that froze its ices by hand in salt and ice. That may explain the gelatine: an unchurned ice sitting for hours in a mould needs something to hold the water in suspension, and gelatine was already in every professional kitchen for aspics and jellies. Building a chocolate ice by working chocolate into a finished vanilla base, rather than making a separate custard, would suit a large kitchen holding a vanilla base in quantity.

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