The Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf

Three thousand recipes from the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf — the hotel kitchen that taught Gilded Age America how to dine, from beef tea to watermelon with champagne.

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Fried Ortolans

Draw and singe twenty-four ortolans, put them in a fryingpan with some melted bacon and two bay leaves sprinkled over with salt and pepper and fry over a brisk fire, turning them frequently. Strain off the fat, add some vinegar and some melted glaze and reduce the liquor quickly over a brisk fire. Take out the bay leaves, add a salpicon of lean smoked ham steeped in water and a little Spanish sauce reduced with white wine and warm the ham without boiling the liquor. Arrange the birds in a pile in the center of a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve with a garnish of small quenelles.

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