The Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf

Three thousand recipes from the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf — the hotel kitchen that taught Gilded Age America how to dine, from beef tea to watermelon with champagne.

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Ham and Chicken Pie

Trim off the skin of some cold chicken, and cut the meat into small pieces (chopping it), mix with it an equal quantity of finely chopped lean ham and a small lot of chopped shallot. Season with salt, pepper and pounded mace, and moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of white stock. Butter a piedish, line the edges with puff paste, and put in the mixture; place a flat of puff paste on the top, trim it round the edges, moisten and press together, punch a small hole in the top, and bake in a moderate oven. When cooked pour a small quantity of hot cream through the hole at the top of the pie, stand the piedish on a flat dish, and serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

A cold-roast-chicken pie of the Waldorf kind: quick to assemble, but the original assumes you know the proportions and the oven by feel. A few specifics fill the gaps.

A Little History

Chopped meat baked under a lid of puff paste belongs to a long English tradition of cold-meat pies, and this one has clear affinities with the ham-and-veal or ham-and-chicken pies of Victorian household cookery — Oscar Tschirky's 1896 book draws on that English and Anglo-French repertoire alongside the Waldorf's own dishes. It reads as a dish for cold roast meat: chicken already cooked, paired with cured ham, shallot and mace and sent out as a course in its own right. The mace is a period marker; it was a common warm spice for potted and pied meats in English kitchens into the nineteenth century.

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