The Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf

Three thousand recipes from the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf — the hotel kitchen that taught Gilded Age America how to dine, from beef tea to watermelon with champagne.

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Oatmeal Wafers

Mix a small quantity of salt into eight ounces of oatmeal flour, and make it into a dough by adding one teacupful of boiling water, Turn it onto a board well sprinkled with meal, knead it slightly, roll it out as thin as possible, cut it into shapes, brown first one side and then the other, and when they are crisp they are ready for use.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a Scottish-style oatcake under a hotel name: four ingredients, no fat, no leavening. Everything depends on rolling it thin and cooking it dry.

A Little History

Oatcakes of exactly this construction — oatmeal, salt, boiling water, a hot griddle — are the everyday bread of the Scottish and northern English uplands, where oats grew when wheat would not, and versions of them are recorded for centuries before any hotel kitchen took them up. The absence of fat and leavening is the point: this is a keeping bread, meant to be baked hard and stored in a tin, and the recipe's closing phrase — "ready for use" rather than ready to eat — treats it as a pantry staple rather than a dish.

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