The Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf

Three thousand recipes from the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf — the hotel kitchen that taught Gilded Age America how to dine, from beef tea to watermelon with champagne.

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Pigeons in Aspic Jelly

Wash and truss twelve pigeons, put them in a large saucepan with four pounds of the shank of veal, one onion that has been fried, one stick of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, five or six cloves, two dozen peppercorns, and four and one-half quarts of water. Bring to a boil, and cook over a slow fire for three hours, adding at the end of the first hour two tablespoonfuls of salt. When ready, take the pigeons out carefully so as not to break them, and remove the strings. Place the pan over a quick fire and boil rapidly for forty minutes; then strain the liquor through a fine hair-sieve, adding more seasoning if necessary. The liquor should be reduced to two and one-half quarts during boiling. Have two large moulds that will hold six pigeons each, pour a little liquor into each, and set them on ice to harden. Arrange the birds on the set jelly, cover them with the liquor, which must be cooled but not hardened, and set the moulds in the ice-box for twelve hours. When ready to serve, dip the moulds in tepid water, wipe them, and turn the contents on a cold dish. Garnish round the dish with chopped jelly slices of pickled beet-root, and some nicely picked sprays of parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of Tartar sauce.

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