The Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf

Three thousand recipes from the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf — the hotel kitchen that taught Gilded Age America how to dine, from beef tea to watermelon with champagne.

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Smelts in Matelote

Put a chopped onion, a sprig of parsley, two or three mushrooms and a small piece of garlic into a saucepan; pour over them a small quantity of oil and season with salt and pepper. Clean the smelts, put them into a stewpan, pour over one teacupful of champagne and let them simmer gently until cooked. Place the smelts on a hot dish, squeeze a little lemon juice over and serve.

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