The Cook Book by “Oscar” of the Waldorf

Three thousand recipes from the maitre d'hotel of the Waldorf — the hotel kitchen that taught Gilded Age America how to dine, from beef tea to watermelon with champagne.

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Stuffed Smelts

Cut off the fins of eighteen or twenty fresh medium-sized Long Island smelts and wash and dry them well; remove the insides without splitting the stomachs open, then stuff them with a fish forcemeat, using a paper cornet for the purpose. Place the smelts on a well-buttered baking dish (silver if possible), and cover them with one pint of Italian sauce. Place them in a hot oven and bake for eight or ten minutes; remove, squeeze over the juice of a lemon and serve in the same dish.

Smelts, Toulouse Take twelve or fourteen good-sized smelts, remove the bones and then close them up again. Put them in a stewpan with one-half wineglassful of white wine and three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor; season with one-half pinch of salt and one-third pinch of pepper and cook over a moderate fire for six or eight minutes. Arrange the smelts on a dish; add to the sauce a dozen button mushrooms, two sliced truffles, six fish quenelles, and moisten with one-half pint of allemande sauce. Thicken with one tablespoonful of butter and pour the sauce over the smelts. Neatly dress the garnishing round the dish and serve with sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread.

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