The Dixie Cook-Book

“The best is none too good.” Southern family receipts gathered across generations and printed in Atlanta in 1883 — and, in the same volume, everything else a household was expected to know: the laundry, the sick-room, dressmaking, babies, and a year's bill of fare.

HomeCake-Making › Thanksgiving Fruit Cake

Thanksgiving Fruit Cake

Six pounds flour, three of butter, three and a half of sugar, an ounce mace, two glasses wine, two glasses brandy, four pounds raisins, half pound citron, six eggs, one pint yeast, small tea-spoon -

For the Modern Kitchen

A yeast-raised fruit cake of the old barm-and-brandy school, written in the shorthand of a cook who already knew what she was doing. The text as printed breaks off mid-sentence, so one ingredient is lost.

A Little History

Yeast-leavened fruit cake is the older American form, standing between the spiced, fermented great cakes of eighteenth-century English tradition and the egg-and-chemical-leavened cakes that took over once reliable baking powder and soda were on every shelf. A cook working before packaged yeast kept a jar of barm or a yeast cake going in the kitchen, and a pint of it was as ordinary a measurement as a cup of milk. That this appears in *The Dixie Cook Book* as a Thanksgiving cake is itself telling: the holiday was a New England institution that spread through the South largely after the Civil War, carried in good part by cookbooks and women's magazines. The scale, six pounds of flour, points to a household that baked for a crowd and expected the cake to keep for weeks.

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