The Epicurean
A Treatise on the Culinary Art — Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s — 1894
No. 2670

Dandelion Salad

Salade de Dent-de-lion

This salad takes the place of wild chicory, especially in winter, and by growing it in cellars it can be had very white and tender. Prepare and season it the same as monk's beard (No. 2674).

For the Modern Kitchen

Ranhofer gives this as a cross-reference rather than a full method: the point of the entry is the leaf and how it is grown, not the dressing. What follows is what a cook needs to make sense of it.

A Little History

Charles Ranhofer compiled The Epicurean in 1894 out of some thirty years at Delmonico's in New York, and its green salad chapter reads like an inventory of what a serious kitchen could obtain in each season. Forcing roots in a dark cellar was standard market-garden practice in France and had been for generations before this book: chicory and dandelion crowns were lifted and grown on without light to produce the pale winter leaves the French call barbe de capucin. The name itself is the joke that survived translation — dent-de-lion, lion's tooth, for the jagged leaf, which English took over whole. That a New York restaurant listed dandelion at all says something about the period: it was a genuine market crop with a growing method behind it, rather than the lawn weed it is now generally taken to be.