Ranhofer gives this as a cross-reference rather than a full method: the point of the entry is the leaf and how it is grown, not the dressing. What follows is what a cook needs to make sense of it.
- The hinge: blanchingEverything here depends on excluding light. Dandelion roots lifted in autumn and forced in a dark cellar throw pale, tender leaves with a fraction of the bitterness of green ones. A dark cupboard, a cardboard box or an upturned pot over a garden crown does the same thing over two to three weeks.
- "Monk's beard" in this bookRanhofer's monk's beard is almost certainly barbe de capucin, chicory root forced in the dark for its blanched leaves, rather than the Italian barba di frate (agretti) sold under the same English name today. The method for it is at No. 2674, which this entry simply points to.
- The dressing impliedA nineteenth-century green salad dressing is generally oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, commonly around three parts oil to one of vinegar, mixed at the last moment. Bitter leaves take a slightly sharper hand than lettuce, and mustard in the vinegar is not out of period.
- Wild leavesIf gathering rather than forcing, take rosettes before the flower stalk appears; once the plant bolts the leaves turn aggressively bitter. Avoid verges, lawns and parks that may have been sprayed or treated.
- Washing and dryingCellar-grown and garden dandelion both carry grit at the base of the rosette. Trim the crown, soak in several changes of cold water, then dry thoroughly, since wet leaves will not hold a vinaigrette.
- Wild chicory, the thing it replacesThe recipe positions dandelion as a winter stand-in for wild chicory. The two substitute well for each other in a salad calling for bitter greens; escarole hearts and Belgian endive will also serve, though they are milder.
- YieldNo quantity is given. Reckon about 2 oz (roughly 60 g) of trimmed leaves per person as a salad course, dressed just before serving.
Charles Ranhofer compiled The Epicurean in 1894 out of some thirty years at Delmonico's in New York, and its green salad chapter reads like an inventory of what a serious kitchen could obtain in each season. Forcing roots in a dark cellar was standard market-garden practice in France and had been for generations before this book: chicory and dandelion crowns were lifted and grown on without light to produce the pale winter leaves the French call barbe de capucin. The name itself is the joke that survived translation — dent-de-lion, lion's tooth, for the jagged leaf, which English took over whole. That a New York restaurant listed dandelion at all says something about the period: it was a genuine market crop with a growing method behind it, rather than the lawn weed it is now generally taken to be.