Blidah

This is a moulded composite ice in the Delmonico manner: an inner lozenge of one ice set inside a larger mould and surrounded by two more, then sliced across so each portion shows the pattern. Nothing here is difficult, but the construction depends entirely on keeping every component hard while you work.

• The hinge: work cold and fastEach layer must go in firm enough to hold its shape but soft enough to pack without air pockets. Chill the moulds in the freezer beforehand, work one component at a time, and return the assembly to hard freeze between stages rather than trying to build it in a single sitting.
• The cross-referencesRanhofer's numbers point to other recipes in The Epicurean: cherry ice cream (No. 3451), currant water ice (No. 3602) and vanilla ice cream (No. 3458); the mandarin water ice is called for without a number. Any good modern version of those will serve; the water ices should be sharper and less sweet than the creams so the layers read distinctly on the cut face.
• "Montelimar mold"A named mould shape of the period rather than a recipe term: a deep loaf mould with a cover that is forced on. The dimensions given at the end — 8 in. long, 3¾ in. high, 3¼ in. wide at the base — are what matter. A metal terrine or pullman loaf pan of similar size, lined with plastic film, does the same job.
• "Packed in ice" and the one-hour freezeThe filled mould is buried in crushed ice — in Ranhofer's usual practice ice with coarse salt — so it chills by direct contact rather than by cold air. In a home freezer set to 0F, allow four to six hours, or overnight, before attempting to slice.
• The inner lozengeIt is frozen separately, unmoulded, and set in the base of the larger mould so that it runs the full eight inches. Freeze it rock hard first — if it softens at all while the surrounding ices go in, the pattern will smear.
• Oranges in maraschinoPeel and segment two oranges, strip the membrane, and macerate the pulp an hour in maraschino liqueur before folding it into the vanilla. Drain it well: the alcohol and juice both lower the freezing point, and a wet mix will stay slushy at the centre.
• UnmouldingDip the sealed mould in warm water for a few seconds, invert, and lift away. Then rest the ice in the refrigerator five to ten minutes before cutting, or the knife will crack rather than slice it.
• YieldAn eight-inch loaf cut in half-inch slices gives about sixteen portions. The lace paper doilies are period presentation and keep the slices from sliding on the plate.