The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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Finings for Cordials (Water Distill from off)

of water. Distill from off the water, 6 gallons flavored alcohol, and add 14 gallons of the whitest plain syrup, about 34 degrees, Baumé.

Malliorca d'Espagne.

Charge of the Still, Water Bath. 40 gals. alcohol, 55 per cent, 18 lbs. green anise seed, 5 gals. river water.

Put into the water-bath only 20 gallons of the alcohol, and 5 gallons river water. When 18 gallons are distilled off, add the remaining 20 gallons of alcohol, and continue the distillation until 18 gallons more are obtained, which mix with the 18 gallons previously obtained, and add one drachm of ether to give it age.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a commercial distiller's working note, not a kitchen recipe, and it cannot be followed today. The points below explain what the text is describing and where it goes wrong.

A Little History

Anisette of the Mallorca type — here spelled Malliorca d'Espagne — was one of the standard sweet anise liqueurs of the western Mediterranean, and Spanish anisette was widely imitated by French and American houses selling under Spanish-sounding names. Manuals like this one were written for the trade rather than the home: they assume a still with a water bath (a bain-marie, used because direct fire scorches seeds and gives a burnt note), a Baumé hydrometer for syrup, and purchases by the barrel. The instruction to add ether "to give it age" is the period's most telling detail. Whatever the state of chemical understanding, distillers had observed that old spirit smelled fruity and volatile, and ether was a cheap way to suggest that character. A similar logic is often said to have put ether, chloroform and nitrobenzene into cheap cordials in the nineteenth century, a family of practices that pure-food legislation in Europe and the United States was among other things intended to curb.

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