The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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Flavoring Compound for Brandy

Imitation French Brandy.

To 40 gallons French proof spirit, add 1 quart tincture of orris root (see page 66), 1 pint vanilla flavoring (see next receipt), 1/2 gallon best sherry or Madeira wine, and 1 pint wine vinegar. Dissolve separately, 1 drachm oil of cognac, and 12 drops oil of bitter almonds, each in a little 95 per cent. alcohol, and add them to the mixture, coloring the whole to suit with caramel. 1 pound of glycerine will give age and smoothness to the brandy.

Vanilla Flavoring for Liquors.

Slice 1 drachm vanilla in small pieces; infuse for 20 days in 1 pint 95 per cent. alcohol; filter.

Imitation Pale Brandy. Fine.

Infuse 1 drachm star-anise (breaking the star only) for 8 hours in 1/2 pint 95 per cent. alcohol, and filter ; add this to 40 gallons proof spirits ; then add 1/2 gallon best Jamaica rum, and 1 pint of the best raspberry syrup. Dissolve 1 drachm oil of cognac, and 12 drops oil of bitter almonds, separately, in a little 95 per cent. alcohol, and mix them with the whole. Add 1 pound of pure glycerine to the brandy, to give it age-and smoothness. (For a very fine brandy recipe, see page 259.) Flavoring Compound for Brandy.

Mash 25 pounds raisins, 12 pounds prunes, 3 pounds figs, and 1 pineapple sliced; infuse for 15 days in 20 gallons proof spirits, stirring every day, and then filter. This splendid Brandy flavor is used in combination with other flavors.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

These are rectifier's formulas — bulk blending sheets for a nineteenth-century liquor house, not kitchen receipts — and two of the three call for oil of bitter almonds, which is why the page carries a warning.

A Little History

The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer belongs to a genre of trade manuals written for rectifiers — the men who bought barrels of cheap neutral or grain spirit and turned them into "cognac," "Jamaica rum" and "Holland gin" with essential oils, wine, caramel and sugar. The economics were simple: aged brandy cost years of capital, while a quart of orris tincture and a drachm of oil of cognac did not. The fruit compound here — raisins, prunes, figs and a pineapple macerated for fifteen days — is the least deceptive item on the page, and the most revealing: it is an attempt to build by infusion the dried-fruit and stone-fruit notes that long oak ageing produces in genuine grape brandy. Practices of this kind were what the United States eventually addressed with the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906 and the "straight whiskey" rulings that followed, which forced blends and imitations to say so on the label.

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