The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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To Clean Champagne Baskets

Imitation French Champagne. 40 gallons white Bordeaux wine; 1 gallon muscat wine; gallon old cognac brandy; and 4 gallons syrup made of 25 pounds sugar and 2 gallons water. (as directed on page 184). In this receipt a little tincture of vanilla, or a small bottle of enanthic bouquet, may be used instead of the muscat wine. They may be omitted altogether if aroma is not desired.

Cheap Champagne. 13 gallons California wine; 13 gallons white Bordeaux wine; 13 gallons water; 1 gallon 95 per cent. French spirit; 1 quart raspberry syrup, and 4 gallons syrup made of 25 pounds sugar and 2 gallons water (as directed on page 184). Or, 20 gallons Catawba wine; 20 gallons water; 2 gallons Angelica wine; 2 gallons 95 per cent. French spirit, and 4 gallons syrup as before.

The Bottling Machine and Safety Guard.

MATTHEWS' BOTTLING MACHINES, for filling bottles with champagne and other liquids under pressure, are now made with the patent safety screen, which prevents accidents so frequently caused by the explosion of the bottle, and are unequaled for durability and rapidity of operation.

To Strengthen Champagne for Bottling.

To strengthen the wine, rinse each bottle with a little cognac brandy when bottling. If desired, a bouquet may be added at the same time.

To Clean Champagne Baskets.

When the baskets are dirty, wash them with muriatic acid, and water, by means of a brush.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This page is a cluster of trade formulas for faking champagne, plus two workshop notes — one on bottling under pressure, one on scrubbing the shipping baskets with acid. Several elements of it are simply outside what a modern kitchen or home cellar can or should do.

A Little History

Manuals like this one belong to a distinct nineteenth-century genre: trade handbooks written for wholesalers, saloon-keepers and rectifiers, telling them how to build a saleable product out of cheap bulk wine, sugar syrup, neutral spirit and a few drops of aroma. They circulated freely in the decades before food and drink labelling law had any teeth — in the United States, before the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906 — and the frankness of the language shows how ordinary the practice was thought to be. The paid notice for Matthews' bottling machine with its patent safety screen is a reminder that the real hazard of the business was mechanical: bottles charged with sugar and sealed by hand exploded often enough to justify a guard and an advertisement for one. The final line about the baskets is a warehouse instruction that drifted into a book of formulas.

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