The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer

The liquor trade's own 1868 handbook — stills, cordials, imitation brandies and how wines were doctored, preserved as printed.

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To Restore Sour Wine with Potash

3 weeks, and then immediately bottled, and consumed as soon as possible, for it will never prove a good keeping wine.

To restore Pricked or Decaying Wine.

If the wine is only thick, add 2 pints of milk to every 30 gals. of wine and stir 10 minutes. But if the wine has an inferior taste, or is partly or entirely spoiled, treat it as follows:

Put the 30 gals. wine into a clean cask, then take 2 pints spirit of wine, 95 per cent, 3 oz. common salt, 1 lb. white sugar.

Dissolve the salt and sugar in ½ gal. of the wine, and add the spirit. Then pour the whole gradually into the wine, being careful to stir it continually with a stick during the operation. After the mixture is all poured in the wine, stir the whole for 10 minutes longer. Then add 2 pints of milk and continue stirring 10 minutes more. After some days the wine will be completely clarified and restored. "Pricked" wine signifies wine which has been slightly soured.

To remedy Excessive Acidity in German Wine.

You simply add a little chalk. This mode of correcting the sourness of wine is perfectly harmless, whereas the pernicious practice of using white and vitrified lead for this purpose cannot be too much condemned. Lead in any form is a poison.

To restore Sour Wine with Potash.

To 25 gals. wine, add 4 oz. of potash dissolved in a little water, and stir well with a stick for 10 minutes. 172 "SWEATING IN " AND "FRETTING IN" WINES.

How to treat Wines beginning to Decompose Many persons are unaware of the difference between a wine that is beginning to decompose (called in French the Poux), and that in which the acetous fermentation has commenced.

The Poux appears at the bottom of the barrel while acetification begins at the top.

For the first stage of the Poux the wine becomes thick and has a peculiar taste termed flat.

For the second stage the wine becomes still more troubled, and has the taste of stagnant water.

Finally in the last stage, when the decomposition has reached its maximum, the wine becomes greyish and appears like muddy water. If some of the wine is put into a champagne glass and a pinch of tartaric acid is added, a red color will be produced which will not be the case if the wine is in the state of acetous fermentation.

THE BEST REMEDY FOR THE POUX IS AS FOLLOWS:

As soon as discovered add tartaric acid in the proportion of 14 ounces to every 20 gals. of the wine and let it rest for a few days, when if the wine has not regained its natural color a little more tartaric acid must be added. "Sweating In" and "Fretting In" Wine.

The technical terms "sweating in" and "fretting in," are applied to the partial production of a second fermentation, for the purpose of mellowing down the flavor of foreign ingredients (chiefly brandy) added to wine. For this purpose 4 or 5 lbs. of sugar or honey, with a little crude tartar (dissolved), are commonly added per hogs head; and when the wine is wanted in haste, a spoonfu

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a cellar-doctoring instruction rather than a drink you make from scratch, and it cannot be followed today. The points below explain what the terms mean and why the procedure fails on its own terms.

A Little History

Before refrigeration, sterile filtration and reliable sulphur dioxide management, a merchant's stock was in constant slow decay, and a manual of this kind had its value in telling him how to hold a cask together long enough to sell it. Some of the vocabulary is French cellar practice carried into English: the text itself says that a wine beginning to decompose is "called in French the Poux", the flat, cloudy, greyish state that begins at the bottom of the barrel rather than at the surface. "Pricked" is the English trade term for slightly soured wine, as the page explains, and "sweating in" or "fretting in" is given as the partial second fermentation used to mellow down added brandy. The tartaric-acid colour test described for distinguishing poux from acetous fermentation is in effect a rough acidification check of the anthocyanin pigments, the same chemistry that makes red wine brighter in more acid solution. Potash deacidification itself survives in modern winemaking, but as potassium bicarbonate or calcium carbonate added against a measured titratable acidity, which is precisely the control this era lacked.

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