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The ladies of 1870s Chicago pooled their recipes and signed every one — corned beef from Mrs. Beaty, lemon pie from Mrs. Saulter.

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Candy (Sweets to the Sweet)

"Sweets to the Sweet."

In order to understand the secret of candy making, it will be necessary to understand the action of heat upon sugar. The first step in this process is the reduction of sugar to a syrup, which is done by adding water to sugar in the proportion of a pint and a-half of water to three and a-half pounds of sugar. When this boils up in the kettle we have simple syrup. A few more minutes of boiling, reduces the water which holds the sugar in perfect solution. At this stage, if the syrup is allowed to cool, the candy crystallizes on the sides of the dish, and we have rock candy. If, instead of allowing it to cool at this point, we allow it to reach a higher degree of heat, we shall find, in putting a spoon into the syrup, when drawing it out a long thread of sugar will follow the spoon. It is to this point that confectioners bring the syrup for the greater number of candies produced. The greatest skill is required on the part of the operator to push the boiling sugar to this point without allowing it to reach the caramel state, when it becomes bitter and dark and is no longer fit to use as a confection. The proportion of sugar and water for candy making will be three and one-half pounds of sugar to ane and one-half pints of water. To this add one teaspoon of cream of tartar, which will prevent the tendency of the sugar to assume the granular condition. To test the candy, drop into cold water. When this becomes at once hard and brittle the vessel should be at once removed from the fire. Flat sticks are formed by pouring the candy into long flat pans, and when cooling crease the mass, which will readily break into sticks when cold. To make round stick candy, when cool enough to handle and while warm enough to mould, roll into sticks with the hands. To colour candies, take small portions of the candy while cooling, and colour, then put together in strips and twist slightly.

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