The Pleasures of the Table

Gastronomy from ancient days to modern times — the feasts of Greece and Rome, the great chefs and their schools, the literature of the table, and Ellwanger's own views on the aesthetics of dinner-giving.

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Of Sauces (Je la redoute cette sauce Avec)

"Je la redoute, cette sauce. Avec elle on mangerait toujours. La lecture seule de sa recette donne faim."

BARON BRISSE: La Petite Cuisine.

T HE supreme triumph of the French cuisine consists in its sauces; for nothing can so vary the routine of daily cookery as the different combinations of herbs and seasonings that may be utilised by a competent artist as an adjunct and a finish to a dish. King's "Art of Cookery" has admirably versified the mission of the sauce: "The spirit of each dish and zest of all Is what ingenious cooks the Relish call; For though the market sends in loads of food, They all are tasteless till that makes them good."

Of Sauces (Je la redoute cette sauce Avec) — from The Pleasures of the Table (1902)

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