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The Renaissance of Cookery: Barras

A striking example of a gastronomer philanthropist is that of the Vicomte de Barras, surnamed le beau, who flourished during the Directory, and who was celebrated for his dinners, his prodigality, and his gallantry. During his later years he continued to entertain sumptuously, although obliged to confine himself to a single dish a large plate of rusk moistened with the juice of an underdone leg of mutton. At his banquets a lackey was always stationed back of the chair of each guest to see that he was never obliged to wait. Among the countless menus of his entertainments, the following, signed by himself and accompanied by a note in his own handwriting, will show the excellence of his dinners and his solicitude for his guests. It will be noted that, apart from the lavish provision made for the gentler sex in the dessert, the menu was one of quality as opposed to mere quantity: Carte Dinatoire Pour La Table Du Citoyen Directeur et Général Barras, Le Décadi 30 Floréal.

Douze personnes. 1 potage. 1 relevé. 6 entrées. 2 plats de rôt. 6 entremets. 1 salade. 24 plats de dessert.

Le potage aux petits oignons à la ci-devant minime.

Le relevé, un troncon d'esturgeon à la broche.

Les Six Entrées : 1 d'un sauté de filets de turbot à l'homme de confiance, cidevant maître-d'hôtel. 1 d'anguilles à la tartare. 1 de concombres farcis à la moelle. 1 vol-au-vent de blanc de volaille à la Béchamel. 1 d'un ci-devant St. Pierre sauce aux câpres. 1 de filets de perdrix en anneaux.

Les Deux Plats de Rôt: 1 de goujons du département. 1 d'une carpe au court-bouillon.

Les Six Entremets: 1 d'œufs à la neige. 1 betteraves blanches sautés au jambon. 1 d'une gelée au vin de Madère. 1 de beignets de crême à la fleur d'oranger. 1 de lentilles à la ci-devant reine à la crême au blond de veau. 1 de culs d'artichauts à la ravigote. 1 salade céleri en rémoulade.

Beneath the bill of fare were these remarks, signed "Barras": "There is too much fish. Leave out the gudgeons; the rest is all right. Do not forget to place cushions on the chairs of the citoyennes Tallien, Talma, Beauharnais, Hainguerlot, and Mirande. And for five o'clock precisely. Have the ices sent from Veloni's; I don't want any others."