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Four hundred ways to make a sandwich, catalogued in 1909 — from oyster and nasturtium to the After the Ball.

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Chicken Liver Sandwich

Boil chicken liver until tender and rub through a sieve; mix with an equal amount of olives chopped fine, and mayonnaise dressing; place between thin slices of lightly buttered white bread.

For the Modern Kitchen

A three-line filling that assumes you already have the livers, the olives and a bowl of homemade mayonnaise on hand. The only real technique is not overcooking the liver.

A Little History

Chicken livers were an economy ingredient in the era of the whole-bird butcher: every roasting fowl came with its giblets, and a cook with a few livers and no plan for them found a home in the sandwich filling or the savoury. Sandwich books proliferated in America between about 1900 and 1920, driven by the bridge party, the picnic hamper and the afternoon tea table, and their structure is often much the same — a cooked or potted protein, a chopped sharp element, and mayonnaise to bind, spread between thin white bread. Olives appear constantly in these collections, and their brine served the same function that lemon or capers do in a modern liver pâté, cutting the richness of the offal.

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