The Up-to-Date Sandwich Book

Four hundred ways to make a sandwich, catalogued in 1909 — from oyster and nasturtium to the After the Ball.

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Fig and Nut Sandwich No.2

Chop figs and English walnuts fine; moisten with whipped cream; place between thin slices of lightly buttered white bread. Garnish with smilax.

For the Modern Kitchen

A four-line tea sandwich from the era when the filling was expected to be spread thin and the bread thinner. The only real technique is getting the fig and nut paste to bind without weeping.

A Little History

Sandwich books proliferated in America between about 1900 and 1920, when the afternoon tea table and the ladies' luncheon created demand for something small, sweet and portable that was not cake. Fig and nut was one of the standard sweet pairings of the type, alongside date and nut and raisin and nut, all of them leaning on dried fruit that kept year-round in a pantry and on walnuts sold shelled by the pound. That the book offers a No. 2 at all tells you how the genre worked: the same few ingredients were recombined and renumbered, and the compiler printed more than one version. The instruction to garnish with smilax is a period signature — the trailing green vine was sold by florists for table decoration and appears in cookery writing of these years as a common way to dress a serving plate.

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