The Up-to-Date Sandwich Book

Four hundred ways to make a sandwich, catalogued in 1909 — from oyster and nasturtium to the After the Ball.

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Rare Beef Sandwich

To two parts of chopped lean rare beef, add one part of finely minced celery. Season with salt, pepper, and a little made mustard. Place on a lettuce leaf between thin slices of lightiy buttered white bread.

For the Modern Kitchen

A leftover-roast sandwich filling, built on the assumption that a joint of rare beef sat in the larder waiting to be used up. The whole thing turns on how finely you cut, not on cooking.

A Little History

Sandwich books proliferated in the United States around 1900, when afternoon teas, card parties and packed luncheons created steady demand for small filled breads and the cookbook trade obliged with slim volumes of nothing else. Cold roast meat is a recurring theme among them, because a household that roasted a joint on Sunday needed somewhere for it to go on Monday, and chopping it fine with a crisp vegetable stretched it further than slicing would, though the collections range widely over cheese, egg, nut and vegetable fillings too. Celery earns its place here for texture and salt-friendly bite; it was a fashionable table vegetable in this period, often served raw in tall glasses as an appetiser, and it appears again and again in sandwich fillings as the cheap route to crunch. The lettuce leaf and the thin, lightly buttered white bread might be read as marking this a lady's-luncheon sandwich rather than a working man's, which would have been thicker cut and less fussed over, though that is inference rather than established fact.

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