The Up-to-Date Sandwich Book

Four hundred ways to make a sandwich, catalogued in 1909 — from oyster and nasturtium to the After the Ball.

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Sandwich (Mix one cream cheese)

Mix one cream cheese with an equal amount of chopped pimolas; season with salt and cayenne, and moisten with a little mayonnaise dressing. Place between thin slices of lightly buttered white or brown bread.

For the Modern Kitchen

A simple spread that needs only two clarifications: what a "cream cheese" was as a unit of purchase, and what pimolas were.

A Little History

Sandwich books proliferated in America between about 1900 and 1915, when the afternoon tea, the card party and the packed luncheon all wanted something small and fillable, and this collection belongs squarely to that wave. Cream cheese was the workhorse of the genre: cheap, spreadable, and neutral enough to carry nuts, olives, pimiento, chopped ham or preserved ginger in dozens of near-identical variations. "Pimola" itself is a period brand-word for the pimiento-stuffed olive, which is generally said to have come from Spain and was still novel enough to be named in recipes rather than described. That a cook could be told to take "one cream cheese" without further qualification suggests how familiar the small packaged cake had already become.

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