365 Dishes of All Nations · 1908

Spanish Baked Chicken

The dish for September 6 — from the Spanish kitchen

September 6 — No. 6
Spanish

Clean and season a chicken with salt and pepper and let boil until tender. Put the chicken in a baking-dish; pour over some tomato-sauce highly seasoned; sprinkle with well-buttered bread-crumbs and let bake until brown. Place on a large platter with a border of boiled rice and pour over the sauce. Serve hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-stage dish: the bird is poached, then finished under crumbs in the oven. The original gives no quantities, temperatures or times, so the judgment calls are all yours.

A Little History

Books of this kind — a dish a day, each pinned to a nation — are generally associated with the years around the First World War, when American home cooks were being introduced to "foreign cookery" in tidy, reassuring doses. What earns the label "Spanish" is the tomato-and-pepper sauce: through the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, English-language cookbooks used "Spanish" as shorthand for almost anything sauced with tomato, onion and sweet or hot pepper, a usage that also gave us Spanish rice and the Spanish omelet. The dish itself is less Iberian than thrifty American practice, closer to a way of using up a boiled fowl: poach, sauce, crumb, brown. The ring of boiled rice around the platter is often said to have been a common presentation for anything wet, doing the work a modern cook would give to a bowl.