365 Dishes of All Nations · 1908

Bean Polenta (Italian)

The dish for September 22 — from the Italian kitchen

September 22 — No. 22
Italian

Cook 2 cups of white dried beans with salt and pepper until very soft; press through a colander. Fry 1 onion in 2 tablespoonfuls of butter until brown; mix with the beans. Add 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, some lemon-juice and 2 tablespoonfuls of molasses. Let all get very hot and serve with pork roast.

For the Modern Kitchen

A bean purée despite the name — there is no cornmeal here at all. The recipe assumes you know how to soak and boil dried beans, and gives no yield or timing, so a few numbers help.

A Little History

The title, which survives here mainly in the file slug rather than in the recipe text itself, is the puzzle: polenta in Italian usage means a boiled meal porridge, and while maize polenta has dominated since the eighteenth century, the word was applied earlier and more loosely to thick pottages of other ground pulses and grains — chestnut, chickpea, farro. A dried-bean purée served hot with roast pork sits comfortably in that older, wider sense. What is less Italian is the seasoning. Vinegar, prepared mustard and two tablespoons of molasses belong to the American sweet-and-sour bean tradition, and their presence is characteristic of the "dishes of all nations" genre that flourished in English-language cookbooks. These day-by-day compilations promised a year of foreign cooking, and the national label was attached to a dish that had already been thoroughly translated for the American table.