365 Dishes of All Nations · 1908

German Waffles

The dish for October 11 — from the German kitchen

October 11 — No. 11
German

Mix ¼ pound of butter with 6 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Add the yolks of 5 eggs, ½ cup of milk, ½ pound of sifted flour with 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, a pinch of salt and the grated peel of a lemon. Mix well; add the whites beaten stiff and bake in a well-greased waffle iron. Sprinkle with pulverized sugar and serve hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

A rich, cake-like batter closer to a dessert waffle than a breakfast one. The only technical demand is folding: the beaten whites are the sole source of lift beyond the baking powder, so treat them gently.

A Little History

German-style waffles of this kind descend from a long Northern European tradition of thin batters baked between hinged irons, a form documented in the Low Countries and German-speaking lands from the late medieval period onward. What distinguishes this version from an American breakfast waffle is its proportions: a half pound of flour carried by a stick of butter, five yolks, whipped whites and lemon zest is closer to a sponge-cake batter than a breakfast one, and the finish the recipe specifies — a dusting of pulverized sugar, served hot — is a cake-like one rather than a syrup one. Long-handled irons for hearth or stovetop use were widely available in American kitchens by the end of the nineteenth century, which is presumably why a book of this sort could assume one without comment. The 365 dishes format — one numbered dish per calendar day, each tagged with a nationality — belongs to a wave of turn-of-the-century compilations that presented European home cooking to American housekeepers, with national labels applied loosely and without much regional precision.