365 Dishes of All Nations · 1908

Halibut a la Toulonaise

The dish for November 15 — from the French kitchen

November 15 — No. 15
French

Slice the fish; season highly with salt, pepper, cloves, lemon-juice and parsley. Then roll in flour and fry in hot olive-oil until brown. Garnish with lemon slices and parsley. Serve with a lettuce salad with French dressing.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain pan-fry that depends entirely on the seasoning being genuinely aggressive and the oil being genuinely hot. The original assumes both.

A Little History

"A la Toulonaise" points at Toulon, the naval port on the Mediterranean coast of Provence, and the dish carries the marks of that coast: olive oil rather than butter for the frying, lemon rather than a flour-thickened sauce, salad alongside instead of a starch. Books like this one, which marched a reader through a year of dishes each labelled by nationality, used such place-names loosely — a French chef's garnish name became a shorthand for southern, oily, lemony treatment, and the label often traveled further than any documented local recipe. Halibut itself is a North Atlantic and Pacific fish rather than a Mediterranean one, so the pairing is an American kitchen borrowing a Provençal manner and applying it to the large firm white fish that the fishmonger actually had, which is more or less how the whole "dishes of all nations" genre worked.