Stuffing for Pigeons

A potato-based forcemeat, lighter and moister than a bread stuffing, intended for the small cavity of a squab. The quantities given fill about two birds.

• Riced potatoBoil a floury potato (russet or similar), drain it very dry, and press it hot through a ricer or food mill. A masher will do at a pinch; a food processor will not, as it turns potato to glue.
• Work it hotThe recipe calls for hot riced potato, so the butter and egg yolk go in while it is still steaming. Once the potato cools it stiffens and the stuffing becomes pasty.
• The soaked crumbs"Soft stale bread crumbs" means the crumb of day-old bread torn or grated, not dry packaged crumbs. Soaking and then wringing them in a cloth gives damp, fluffy crumb that lightens the potato rather than absorbing more moisture from it.
• Poultry seasoningA sage- and thyme-based blend, sold commercially and also mixed at home, commonly with marjoram or savory. "Few grains" means a very small quantity, less than an eighth of a teaspoon; sage will dominate quickly in a mixture this small.
• Pepper quantityHalf a teaspoon of pepper to one cup of potato is assertive by modern taste. Start with a quarter and adjust, since the mixture can be tasted safely before the yolk goes in.
• The birdsMarket pigeon today is sold as squab, usually 12-16 oz dressed, from game butchers and some Asian and Middle Eastern markets. Cornish hens take the same stuffing, though they are larger and will need more of it.
• Fill and cook at onceDo not stuff birds ahead and hold them in the refrigerator. Pack the cavity loosely and put them straight into the oven; the stuffing should reach 165F at the center, checked with a thermometer, by the time the birds are done.
• YieldAbout one and a quarter cups, enough for two squab with a little left over. Any surplus can be shaped into small cakes and browned in butter alongside.