Breakfast, Dessert, Supper

Four hundred recipes from Auburn, New York, 1881 — the oldest cookbook here, and the only one written by a woman for herself.

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Adelma Cake

One cup sugar, one heaping cup flour, one teaspoon baking powder, three eggs, a little salt, three tablespoons milk. Bake in three jelly tins.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a butterless sponge batter for thin jelly-cake layers, and the original assumes you already know the method. The ingredient list is complete; the instructions are not.

A Little History

Cakes carrying a woman's given name -- Adelma, Cora, Lena -- fill the supper and dessert chapters of American community cookbooks from the 1870s through the 1910s, and the name is often said to record nothing more than the contributor or the friend who passed the recipe along. The formula itself is the standard jelly cake of the period: sugar, flour, eggs and a spoonful or two of liquid, baked thin in shallow tins and layered with preserves. Before the home oven had a thermometer, thin layers were the sensible choice, since they baked through in minutes and forgave a fire that was hotter or cooler than the cook intended. Such cakes are a reminder that the evening meal in many households was the lighter one, a matter of bread, preserves, cold meat and a plain sweet cake rather than a cooked course.

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