Breakfast, Dessert, Supper

Four hundred recipes from Auburn, New York, 1881 — the oldest cookbook here, and the only one written by a woman for herself.

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Nothings

Two eggs; add all the flour they will take, roll very. thin and fry in hot lard; sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon mixed, when done.

For the Modern Kitchen

A three-line recipe for fried pastry that assumes you already know what the dough should feel like. The hinge is thinness: rolled thick, these are tough and greasy; rolled to the point of translucency, they blister into brittle sheets in a few seconds.

A Little History

"Nothings" is the plain-English name for the fried scrap-dough pastry that turns up across Pennsylvania German and wider northern European baking — sisters to Norwegian fattigmann, German Hasenöhrchen, and the various "knee patches" and "cobbler's bits" rolled over the knee or a stocking-covered board. The name is generally read as a joke about the ingredient list: eggs, flour, hot fat, sugar, and nothing else, no leavening, no milk, no butter. That economy explains its place in a supper chapter rather than among the desserts, since it was the sort of thing assembled quickly for an evening table from what was already in the kitchen. It also explains why the recipe gives no flour quantity: a cook who made these often judged the dough by hand, and eggs before standardized grading varied enough that a fixed measure would have been useless anyway.

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