Breakfast, Dessert, Supper

Four hundred recipes from Auburn, New York, 1881 — the oldest cookbook here, and the only one written by a woman for herself.

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Walnut Cake

One cup white sugar, two cups flour, one-half cup butter, onehalf cup milk, two eggs, one teaspoon baking powder, one cur walnut meats, one cup raisins chopped fine.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain butter cake with nuts and raisins, given in the shorthand of a period when every cook knew what to do with a list like this. The ingredients are all still current; what is missing is the method, the pan and the oven.

A Little History

The formula is a plain butter cake scaled small, of the sort that filled community and church cookbooks by the hundred, and the walnuts and raisins are what distinguish it from its near-identical neighbours. Black walnuts and English walnuts were both common in American kitchens of the period, the former often gathered rather than bought; the recipe's silence on which to use suggests the cook was expected to have whatever was on hand. The telegraphic style — no oven, no timing, no method — was common in books of this kind, which assumed a cook who already knew how a cake was made and needed only the proportions.

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