Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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Always Save

all the currants, skimmings, pieces, etc., left after making jelly, place in a stone jar, cover with soft water previously boiled to purify it, let stand several days; in the meantime, take your apple peelings, without the cores, and put on in porcelain kettle, cover with water, boil twenty minutes, drain into a large stone jar; drain currants also into this jar, add all the rinsings from your molasses jugs, all dribs of syrups, etc., and when jar is full, drain off all that is clear into vinegar keg (where, of course, you have some good cider vinegar to start with). If not sweet enough, add brown sugar or molasses, cover the bung-hole with a piece of coarse netting, and set in the sun or by the kitchen stove. In making vinegar always remember to give it plenty of air, and it is better to have the cask or barrel (which should be of oak) only half full, so that the air may pass over as large a surface as possible. Vinegar must also have plenty of material, such as sugar, molasses, etc., to work upon. Never use alum or cream of tartar, as some advise, and never let your vinegar freeze. Paint your barrel or cask if you would have it durable. Company, sickness, or other circumstances may prevent making

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a vinegar-making procedure built entirely out of kitchen salvage: jelly skimmings, apple parings, and the last of the molasses. It works on the same principles a modern vinegar-maker uses, but the book leaves the critical variables unstated.

A Little History

Buckeye Cookery (1877) devotes a whole department to "Fragments," and this entry is that ethic at its purest: the currant pulp, the apple parings, the rinsings of the molasses jug, all funneled into a barrel that eventually produces something the household would otherwise buy. Vinegar was one of the great domestic necessities before cheap bottled distilled vinegar arrived, and pickling was one of the main ways a household held vegetables through an Ohio winter, alongside root-cellaring, drying and salting. The instructions to keep the cask oak, half full, netted, warm, and unfrozen are the accumulated practical knowledge of the mother of vinegar. Pasteur had established the microbial basis of acetic fermentation only some fifteen years earlier, and that understanding had not yet filtered into household manuals, which still treated vinegar-making as a knack rather than a biology. The closing advice to paint the barrel is about the wood, not the contents: an unpainted cask left in the sun dries, shrinks, and leaks.

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