Buckeye Cookery

Tried and approved: the great American housekeeping bible of 1880.

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Biscuit (Take one quart sifted flour)

Take one quart sifted flour (loosely put in), one measure each of the acid and soda (or two heaping teaspoons acid and one moderately heaping teaspoon soda) of Horsford's Bread Preparation, one teaspoon salt, three gills of water; shape with a spoon and the floured hand.

For the Modern Kitchen

A bare-bones baking powder biscuit from the era when the leavening came in two separate packets. The whole method rests on speed and a wet dough.

A Little History

Horsford's Bread Preparation was the commercial product of Eben Horsford, a chemist who worked out how to make monocalcium phosphate from bone and later mineral sources, and it was sold through the second half of the nineteenth century as a substitute for cream of tartar, which was expensive and often adulterated. It came as two powders to be measured separately, since acid and alkali packed together would react in the tin \-\- the cornstarch-buffered single-can baking powder that solved that problem was a later refinement. That a household cookbook of the period would print a recipe calibrated in "one measure each" of a specific brand shows how thoroughly these preparations had entered ordinary kitchens, and how the older method of saleratus plus sour milk was giving way to something a cook could buy and trust to behave the same way twice.

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